A night bus ought to mean that you arrive in the morning, when its light out not at 4:30 am, especially when its freezing cold!
I had little choice but to go with a tout. I couldn't even argue on the price. There wasn't heat in the room but there was hot water. At least the hotel was in the area I had wanted to stay in. When go to the room I was so cold that I went to sleep with my clothes on.
It was really a nice walk. I found a place that sold chicken so fresh that they were in cages beneath the sign. Soon I had my ticket and just sorta wandered around the town. It wasn't all that interesting and I didn't like being pulled into the shops. I did find a few magic shops though. That was kinda different.
It was getting colder and I was tired. I picked up a half bottle of apple wine from India and some dried fruit. The area is known for it. I took the wrong road getting back though and it took me some time to find my hotel. I was really happy to get inside and get warm again.
I had the bottle and watched a bit of tv on my ipod, but it made me really tired and I was soon asleep in leg warmers and all.